Climbing a challenging icefall
The southern region of the Simplon Pass is a paradise for experienced ice climbers, who’ll find unlimited possibilities here. We’d like to urgently draw your attention to the fact that conditions change rapidly depending on the weather and that close attention must be paid to the avalanche danger at all times.
If you want to try ice climbing for the first time, you’ve come to the right place! I’ll be happy to show you everything you need to know about ice climbing and how to move safely on the ice with crampons and ice axes.
Level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult, 200, NW, 900, rarely in good condition
Location:
The icefall is located opposite the former Italian customs post at the national border. After crossing the Doveria river, climb up the gully to the small rocky ledge. One hour.
Remarks:
A beautiful but difficult waterfall. May only be attempted in safe snow conditions due to avalanche danger.
The descent is made by abseiling. Rest areas are equipped with pitons.
Level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult, 300, N, 1000, rarely in good condition
Location:
The start is at the double bend (Ramserna) about 1.5 km above Gondo. At the lower bend, go down the slope, cross the Doveria river and climb up the opposite side to the foot of the icy slab.
Remarks:
A beautiful waterfall on the edge of the mighty Pala di Gondo. You’ll reach the three difficult pitches after about 150 metres via the rather flat ice slope on the right side of the lowest section of wall.
At the end of the waterfall, turn right to the rocky ridge and climb back up the forest to an icy ledge. Return to the foot of the waterfall by abseiling on trees and using belays that have been set up.
Level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult, 280, N, 1300, magnificent route
Location:
From Gondo, drive approximately 1.5 km to Simplon until you arrive at the car park after the double bend. Continue on foot along the road until you reach the gallery and then descend to the Doveria river. Cross it and climb up the gully to the foot of the waterfall. One hour.
Remarks:
A stunning route that is clearly visible from the road. The long middle section is very difficult.
Plan for rest stops on ice.
The descent takes place through the forest to the left of the waterfall.
Level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult, 140, N, 1100, beautiful icefall
Location:
Start in Casermetta on the bridge of the Alte Simplonstrasse road (bridge between the tunnel and artificial gallery). From the bridge, the icefall is clearly visible on the right side of the river in the direction of Gondo and can be reached in 15 minutes.
Remarks:
A spectacular icefall. The first pitch over the vertical pillar is the most difficult part. Two equipped rest areas are located on the left side of the fall. The Flash di note route (route 6) is reached via the brink from which the waterfall springs.
This is an abseiling route. Please note: 50 m of double rope is only just enough!
Level of difficulty:
Very difficult, 300, N, 1060
Location:
Start in Casermetta on the bridge of the Alte Simplonstrasse road (bridge between the tunnel and artificial gallery). The icefall starts to the left of the Fort Gondo museum entrance and can be reached in 15 minutes.
Remarks:
A nice climbing route in a narrow trench. The first half is rather easy, followed by three difficult ledges in the upper part. Equipped rest areas are located at the finish.
This is an abseiling route. After the top three pitches, you’ll find rest areas with pitons. Individual trees serve as belays after that.
Level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult, 160, N, 1440, a great deal of stamina is required
Location:
Start in Casermetta on the bridge of the Alte Simplonstrasse road.
Remarks:
A long and difficult icefall. In view of the challenging access, it should only be climbed in good conditions and by those with excellent stamina. The vertical pillar on the third pitch is the key spot. Plan for rest stops on ice.
After the waterfall, turn right and head 150 m through the forest, past the Nessi exit (route 7). After the rock face, descend diagonally into the Grossgigufer gorge and climb down it.
Level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult, 260, N, 1420, good stamina
Location:
Start in Casermetta on the bridge of the Alte Simplonstrasse road. The icefall is located in a narrow gorge on the right side down the valley. When you climb the gorge to the foot of the fall, there’ll be some very difficult passages. The walk from the road takes at least two hours and can only be done with climbing equipment.
Remarks:
Long and difficult icefall. In view of the challenging access, it may only be climbed in good conditions and by those with excellent stamina. Plan for rest stops on ice. Parts of the ascent are very difficult and steep, 85/90 degrees.
Turn right and after the rock face, descend diagonally into the Grossgigufer gorge and climb down it.
Level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult, see no. 9; avalanche danger
Location:
From Casermetta, walk along the gallery in the direction of Simplon for 100 m to the opening and then, once outside, walk 430 m further up the ascent ramp parallel to the gallery. The gorge begins here on the gallery. (Parking is available at the gallery opening)
Remarks:
There are several very difficult icefalls in the long Grossgigufer gorge, which also happens to be a feared avalanche alley.
Abseil back into the gorge and climb down it.
Level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult, 240, N, 1560, avalanche danger
Location:
From Casermetta, walk along the gallery in the direction of Simplon for 100 m to the opening and then, once outside, walk 430 m further up the ascent ramp parallel to the gallery. The gorge begins here on the gallery. (Parking is available at the gallery opening)
Remarks:
The icefall is visible on the black wall from the gallery roof. The middle and end walls are very difficult.
Abseil down if the pitons aren’t frozen over. Otherwise, climb to the right of the fall to the path that leads from Alpe Figinu to the Simplonstrasse road or to the left as in Flash di note (route 6).
Level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult, 300, N, 1310, avalanche danger
Location:
From Casermetta, walk along the gallery in the direction of Simplon for 100 m to the opening and then, once outside, walk 430 m further up the ascent ramp parallel to the gallery. Continue along the gallery until you reach the next gorge. The icefall is clearly visible from there. Climb up the gorge. One hour (parking is available at the gallery opening)
Remarks:
The icefall is visible on the black wall from the gallery roof. The first two pitches are less difficult. The middle section and the exit are very challenging. There are some rest areas secured with pitons along the icefall.
Climb to the right of the fall to the path that leads from Alpe Figinu to the Simplonstrasse road. Abseiling is not recommended due to the brittle rock.
Level of difficulty:
Quite difficult, 180, S, 1060, avalanche danger
Location:
From Casermetta, walk along the gallery in the direction of Simplon for 100 m to the opening and then, once outside, walk 400 m further parallel to the gallery and cross the Doveria river. The entrance to the gully will be visible. 15 minutes.
Remarks:
The lower three pitches are in a narrow groove. A wide final slope follows after a small amphitheatre.
The trees to the right of the icefall are suitable for abseiling. Bolts are at the upper end of the groove.
Level of difficulty:
Very difficult, 80, SE, 1150, weather changes quickly
Location:
From Casermetta, walk along the gallery in the direction of Simplon for 100 m to the opening and then, once outside, walk 400 m further parallel to the gallery and cross the Doveria river. The entrance to the gully will be visible. 15 minutes.
Remarks:
To reach the icefall, you must first climb up the groove of the Couloir ad Ipsilon. The Coda di Pavone starts at the foot of the rock face that blocks the gully of the Couloir ad Ipsilon on the left. On the first pitch, you’ll climb a difficult vertical section to the belayed rest area on the left of the pillar. Only the first part of the second pitch is difficult. An equipped rest area is located to the left of the icefall.
Abseil down to the foot and then climb down the short snow slope to the belays of the Couloir ad Ipsilon. Continue as in route 11.
Level of difficulty:
Very difficult, 500, N, 1150, three sections
Location:
The starting point is the Alte Kaserne avalanche barrier. Heading in the direction of Gondo, cross the Figinu footbridge before the gallery and continue on the right side of the Doveria river until you reach the initially narrow brink after 15 minutes.
Remarks:
A very long icefall that runs over three ledges. The top fall is not connected to the lower ones. It is possible to end your climb after each section. Plan for rest stops on ice.
Continue to the left until you reach the Figina–Alte Kaserne footpath.
Level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult, 120, N, 1250, only formed when very cold for a long time, rarely good conditions
Location:
The starting point is the Alte Kaserne avalanche barrier. Heading in the direction of Gondo, cross the Figinu footbridge before the gallery and continue on the right side of the Doveria river until you go past the Scoperta and reach the icefall on the black rock face after 30 minutes.
Remarks:
Extremely difficult icefall with difficult ledges and pillars. Only suitable for very experienced climbers.
Abseil down – partly possible on trees on the left-hand side.
Level of difficulty:
Very difficult, 100, N, 1200, short-lived icefall
Location:
Start from the stopping point on the Alte Simplonstrasse road between the Gabi tunnel and the Alte Kaserne avalanche barrier. After crossing the Doveria river, ascend the steep slope towards the Seehorn until you reach the icefall on the left. 25 minutes.
Remarks:
After the first pitch, a very difficult route with a narrow pillar.
This involves abseiling – bolts available on trees and second pitch.
Level of difficulty:
Difficult, +80, N, 1200, interesting climbing tour
Location:
Start from the stopping point on the Alte Simplonstrasse road between the Gabi tunnel and the Alte Kaserne avalanche barrier. After crossing the Doveria, ascend the steep slope towards the Seehorn to the icefall on the right. 30 minutes.
Remarks:
An interesting route. The first pitch is easy but there is a steep, tricky wall on the second pitch.
This involves abseiling – down trees on the first pitch and from an equipped rest area on the second pitch.
Level of difficulty:
Very difficult, ++200, N, 1400, frequently climbed, stamina required
Location:
Route 16, Stillicidio serves as the access. Then, climb up to the entrance to the left through the forest. 30 minutes from the Stillicidio exit. The access is wide and difficult.
Remarks:
Long, wide icefall. The ascent route can be chosen depending on the condition of the ice on the wide ice ridge. Some very difficult sections. Belays are available on ice.
On the descent, turn right to the Alpine path that leads from Furggi to Gabi.
Level of difficulty:
Quite difficult, 100, NW, 1250, for beginners with a guide
Location:
The starting point is Gabi. The three icefalls Gosth, Lacrima di Ghiaccio and Scott Gally (from left to right) are visible from Gabi in the opposite Hubultischuggu (rock face to Furggu). There are also smaller falls further to the right.
Remarks:
Cross the river and walk through the forest to the foot of Gosth. This takes 30 minutes.
The first pitch is difficult and steep. It ends at a large larch/rest area. The rest of the route is flatter until the icefall ends in the forest.
You then abseil down trees.
Level of difficulty:
Very difficult, 100, NW, 1250, the most difficult of the three
Location:
The starting point is Gabi. The three icefalls Gosth, Lacrima di Ghiaccio and Scott Gally (from left to right) are visible from Gabi in the opposite Hubultischuggu (rock face to Furggu). There are also smaller falls further to the right. - Cross the river and walk through the forest to the foot of Lacrima di Ghiaccio. 30 minutes.
Remarks:
The first pitch is very difficult. The icefall forms over several short ledges and ends in a narrow gully in the forest.
This climb involves abseiling down trees
Level of difficulty:
Quite difficult, 100, NW, 1250, nice climb for beginners with a guide
Location:
The starting point is Gabi. The three icefalls Gosth, Lacrima di Ghiaccio and Scott Gally (from left to right) are visible from Gabi in the opposite Hubultischuggu (rock face to Furggu). There are also smaller falls further to the right.
Cross the river and walk through the forest to the foot of Scott Gally (30 minutes).
Remarks:
A beautiful and interesting route. The start and exit are in a narrow groove.
You then abseil down trees.
Level of difficulty:
Extremely difficult, 50, NW, 1400, short, challenging route
Location:
The starting point is at the end of the bend gallery in Wäxel, heading towards Gabi. Walk down to the Laggina, cross the river and climb up the Schiltgraben to the foot of the icefall.
45 minutes.
Remarks:
A beautiful but short and very difficult climb. The icefall is vertical and forms a large, overhanging grape-like section halfway up, which you can try to avoid by climbing around on the left-hand side.
Then abseil down the trees to the left of the icefall.